Day 88

Happy Christmas Eve!

This evening as I was trying to finish making preparations for Christmas and decide which service to go to, the power went out – or “lights out” as we say here. It didn’t last long – though I wasn’t sure how long it would last – and it reminds me how we take fore granted how lucky we are to have constant power in the UK, day in day out. The power here’s pretty good, but every so often you’ll get a few weeks when it’s out all day for several days.

Day 89

Today I went to see a neighbour in what had been described as a “cultural performance” or competition between different junior high schools.

On arrival at 10am when it was meant to start, the place was almost deserted. After an hour away and returning, nothing happening. Finally, after 12.30, they started.

The event was hosted by JHS teachers; the two in charge looked like they were in charge of some MTV awards or something; the lady was wearing a very figure hugging white dress and very high shoes and the man in black trousers, white and red t shirt and red accessories.

So, first up was the dancing. Lots and lots and lots and lots of girls and some boys coming up and dancing alone. The dancing was quite provocative and the male teachers seemed to be enjoying it more than they should. After that, there was what can only be described as some kind of Miss Ghana competition – girls walking up and down in high heels, then singing or dancing.

At this point it was about 3.30pm, and they were about to start on the singing. A teacher came over to see if we were enjoying it, and we asked when the drama was coming on. They, thankfully, switched things over so I saw the drama and then left about 4.15pm to do everything else I was planning on doing on that day. The drama performances were more educational than the other things – covering issues such as teen pregnancy, inappropriate relationships with teachers and going to earn money away from home and ending up in prostitution.

I’m not convinced that some of the items on the programme were really appropriate for children at JHS (12-16 year olds), certainly some of the dancing. But it was an interesting day and nice to see Emmanuel in his role as father in his school’s performance.

Day 90

With Hannah, Marc Anthony, Josephine, their baby Jordan, and another lady.

Josephine’s wedding.

In Ghana, getting married is not as simple as it is in the UK. It’s not simply a case of being married or not, it’s much more complicated than that. In Ghana, you can have a traditional marriage, a court marriage or a church marriage. The only one recognised by the law is the court marriage (or so I’ve been told.)

A traditional marriage involves your husband buying several different things for your father – fowls, cows, alcohol – it seems to vary a bit. After that has happened, then you are married. This is, as I said, the traditional way, and so men can have more than one wife in this manner.

A court marriage is like a registry office ceremony in the UK, but is in front of a judge.

A church marriage is made in a church. However, according to a colleague, this is not legally recognised by the law, so you’d need to also have a court certificate.

So, I went to Josephine and Marc Anthony’s wedding. They’re already traditionally married but wanted to be legally married too.

I turned up at the allotted time – 8.45am. The bridal party started to come around 9.15, with the bride and groom arriving closer to 10am. While this went on, I watched several cases in front of the judge. Most involved them deferring the judgement to a later date and then spending a lot of time discussing which date this would be, with the judge saying things like “ah, but they (defendants/accused) might be travelling then, so that date might not be good.”

Finally the time came for the wedding. The couple were told about what being married meant, then did their vows. Then the judge :

“Having a court marriage means that you are legally married. You can only be married to one person. The lady can only marry one person and the man too can only marry one person. So [to Josephine], you can’t take another husband. And you [to Marc Anthony], can’t take another wife. The only way to dissolve your marriage is by getting a divorce. You have to come to the court and get a divorce. Even if you are a chief – oh, or an MP – oh, you still can only take one wife. And the only way to end the marriage is to get a divorce. You need to come to the court and get a divorce. You can’t burn your marriage papers, you are still married under the law. We have copies. So if you lose your papers, you can come here, we’ll copy them and you can have another copy. The only way to end your marriage is to come here, pay the money and get a divorce.”

After this, we went back to Josephine and Tony’s house and had some food – presented in the way it always is at marriages, funerals and workshops – in a takeaway box.

Day 91

Another day in the house, not doing very much and trying to feel better. I watched episodes of “How I met your mother” and did some sewing – making a stocking for a friend who lives nearby which we’ll fill with some wee goodies.

One thing I’ve really enjoyed/appreciated in Ghana is how little commercialisation there is of Christmas. Yes, I do miss Christmas lights, and Christmas music in shops or at church so I do wish it was a bit more Christmassy at times. But it is so nice to be somewhere where people actually remember what Christmas is all about, and people spend it with the people they care about. Christians will go to church (in huge numbers) and Muslims will probably be given Christmas food by their neighbours and spend time with their families.

Day 92

(trying out my food photography today too...)


Malaria times…

Well, day 92 was a bit of a dull one… I watched “The Constant Gardener” and was really quite confused by the plot due to what is commonly known as “malaria brain”. Later, Hannah, Ellie and I made the “noodle thing” or “Accra noodles” – a delicacy I discovered with Hannah and Vic last Christmas. It’s basically instant noodles with veg, sardines and egg – but really tasty and very quick. Then we watched “The Holiday” though I didn’t get to the end of it and had an early night.

Day 93

I’m off work today with suspected malaria – suspected as I have no medical confirmation and the test I took was negative but I’m treating it as now I’m on the fourth time, I’m pretty sure that when I feel like I have malaria, then I have malaria!

So my pictures, not very exciting, are of my medical test and drugs I’m now taking – malaria treatment drugs, blood tonic which is thick dark brown syrup with orange, honey and malt flavourings, some paracetamol and some vitamin C.

I went to get the Lonart from the chemical shop, which came to Ghc5. I then asked for paracetamol, which was another Ghc0.40. I gave over Ghc7, and he gave me back the Ghc2, saying the paracetamol was for me. I found Ghc0.40, which he refused, while giving me some vitamin C as a “dash” too – can you imagine that happening in the UK.

Being ill is never nice, and being ill in a hot country, especially if you have a temperature, is not nice at all. However, the pleasant 30 degrees or less we’ve been experiencing these last few weeks is, in my opinion, a much nicer climate than the minus temperatures that I’m sure you’re having at home just now.

The other thing about being ill in Ghana is it brings home how important your “Ghana family” are. When you don’t have your parents telling you to go to the doctor, you can think “I’m ok” when really you’re not. Thankfully, the vols in Bolga are good at looking after each other; a kind friend made me go and get tested and is making sure I’m drinking enough water and eating regularly. Colleagues have done the same in the past too.

And just as I sign off – please don’t worry about me! I know malaria isn’t good, and it gets a bad press at home (understandably), but I’m healthy, in my 20s, and taking the recommended treatment and will be fine in a few days with some rest, drugs and chocolate!

Day 94

This morning, I went to church. Towards the end of the two and a half hour service, I started to feel a little woozy, so haven’t done all that much today. However, I did go up on some friends’ roof to take some pictures this evening.

The small booth on the left is a shop – there are hundreds like this in Bolga alone. There are a few larger “supermarkets” in Bolga, which are really not much bigger than your average Spar – I was very surprised when I was first in Bolga and looking for “Daily Needs”, and was expecting something akin to the Swaziland supermarkets I’d been to previously. This one is pretty good and sells a lot of foods and other products. Smaller shops often only sell biscuits, bread, eggs and tomato paste! The lady on the left is breaking and bagging charcoal. Between them is a house – a pretty nice one, belonging to the family who own the shop. The storey building behind that is Zamstech, a Senior High School.