Day 98

Fried fish for lunch

Yes, I managed to get to day 3 without mentioning food. It is my first but certainly won’t be my last foody entry!

I’ve never been scared of trying new foods,though my time in Ghana certainly wins for some of the stranger things I’ve tried… more on that later. Pictured here is part of today’s lunch – wee deep fried fish – and yes, Sonia, you do eat the eyes - and then oranges – prepared the Ghanaian way where they take off most of the peel leaving the pith and cutting off the top so you can squeeze out the juice. Yummy! It’s surprising how common fish is considering we’re hundreds of miles from the sea here – amini is a very common ingredient in most sauces. Amini are tiny fish, which are smoked then grinded and added as a kind of stock. Surprisingly tasty.

Day 99

Sharing skills, changing lives, drinking tea

A sight you don’t see all that often - 9 sulemias sitting around together on a week day discussing work! We had a TSO (Teacher Support Officer) meeting on Monday and Tuesday this week and discussed all sorts of teaching issues. Although we have lots of informal discussions with each other, it’s important to also share resources, talk about reporting and make sure we’re documenting the work we’re doing properly. It also means volunteers working more remotely can get a chance to see other people!

At our meeting were 5 TSOs, an MSO (Management Support Officer), a CASO (Community Advocacy Support Officer), a STSO (Science TSO) and a… Damien (who does something to do with Inclusion and Girl Child Education.) Most participants are new vols, so there was a lot of going over old ground but also lots of insightful conversation.

The next one is to be held on Day 2 and Day 1 of my countdown… L

Day 100

Football at Sandgardens

Today I went to see a football match. Rachel? Football? Yes, that’s right. I went to see a Chelsea-Manchester City game for the Champions’ League and Chelsea won. I think.

I’ve never been much of a football fan, but Ghana has made me a little more sympathetic to the sport. With the African Cup then the World Cup last year, both hosted in African nations, I ended up along at quite a number of games and even enjoyed some. I didn’t always pay much attention to the screen and asked endless questions about the offside rule, but I really enjoyed being around Ghanaians (mainly men) who were so enthusiastic about football.

…so apparently it was the Premier League…

Commiserating with Ghanaians when they went out of the World Cup in July 2010.

Day 101

Tomorrow, it will be 100 days until my placement officially ends. Therefore, I shall be starting a daily countdown, with a photo and some small writing for each day. Watch this space…

How did the chicken cross the road?

As the dry Harmattan season falls upon us, the roads in Ghana are becoming increasingly awash with stray animals trying to find scraps of food.  Discussion with a VSO friend tonight has made us decide that VSO motorbike training should include a section on how the animals cross the road…

Cow – if you are unlucky enough to be faced with a cow… beware.  A cow standing stationery on the road may all of a sudden decide that as you ride towards it, it really wants that specific piece of grass that happens to be across your path.  Or it might just stay still…

Either way, see a cow – slow down.

Donkeys – the thing about being as stubborn as a mule isn’t a joke.  Donkeys are stubborn.  They will cross if they want to, avoid you if they want to, and possibly run towards you if they feel like it.  Little ones like to lie on their backs in the middle of the road.  Rather cute, a little dangerous.

If you see a donkey… reverse.

Sheep – sheep are stupid.  If a sheep is crossing the road in front of you, chances are that it’s mother, father, sister, brother, cousin and great aunt will also be following.  Sheep like to do that – follow one another, like…erm… sheep.  If you beep at them, they will stop and look at you… and become even more of a hazard as they are confused as to whether to run away from you, towards you or just try and stare you out. 

So if you see a sheep, slow down, don’t bother beeping, and watch out for the rest of its village.

Goats – goats are significantly cleverer than sheep.  If you beep at a goat, it will move out of the way. 

The biggest problem is telling the difference between a sheep and a goat.  “What?!” I hear you ask – “difference between a sheep and a goat – isn’t that primary school knowledge?!”  It’s not.  Ask my sister, who spent several happy hours when she first visited saying “that one – is it a sheep or a goat… what about that one?”  The answer, I have discovered, is in the tail.  Stubby tail points up, it’s a goat.  Longer tail points down, it’s a sheep.  Probably.

So if you see something that looks like a goat… or a sheep… slow down.

Dogs – dogs are fast, but sometimes come from nowhere.  Dogs are in many ways one of the worse offenders as you have no idea where they’ve appeared from.  They also get scared quite easily, so may well cross your path, see something coming from the other direction and cross your path again.

So if you see a dog... get the brakes on fast.

Pigs – pigs are supposedly intelligent creatures.  My experience with pigs is that they might sometimes react to a horn, but rarely stray from their path.  So if you see a pig, it’ll almost certainly keep going.  Pigs seem to like moving in size order, so watch out for Big Pig, Medium Sized Pig and Very Little Pig following on behind Enormous Pig.

So if you see pigs – get behind the last one as they probably won’t turn back.  Probably.

Chickens – chickens are just suicidal.  There’s really no argument.  They see you coming and decide that they want to be run over… until you’re almost there, then they freak out, flap their wings everywhere then decide that now’s the time to see if they are capable of flying.  The good news is that if you hit a chicken, it will die and you might not notice.  So if you see a chicken, have space to brake and had a big lunch, try and avoid it.  If there’s something coming towards you or you just had a Coke, just keep on driving.

Guinea fowl – you thought chickens were stupid?  Then try guinea fowls.  They are the combination of the crazy chicken and village of sheep… also rather tasty.

Frogs – nice as it is to avoid a frog (well done Rachel!), it’s really not necessary to do an emergency stop when you see one.  Even if you thought it was a cat.

Teachers and teaching...

As you might imagine, the school system and everyone in it is a little different here to at home. Being a teacher is not a highly respected position, and many teachers, even those who have gone through 3 years of training, will often have their eye out for other employment opportunities.

There are many different grades of teacher in Ghana. Some are qualified, with a Bachelor of Education (BEd), Diploma in Basic Education (DBE) or an older, 3 or 4 year teaching qualification. Others are Teaching Assistants, National Service Volunteers or Volunteer Teachers. The latter three have little or no training and are often left in charge of a class, though they’ll ideally work alongside someone with a qualification. Some are doing a Sandwich Course, which, unfortunately for me, does not mean that the culinary opportunities in Bolga are to be improved, rather that they go to a local Teacher Training College during the school holidays for three or four years and end up with a DBE. Teachers can teach over 100 (which I’ve seen often) and rarely less than 50 children.

But how much does the training actually matter? What makes a good teacher?

One of the best teachers I’ve come across is a P2 teacher called Mary*. She’s in her early 30s and has been at the school for a number of years – I’m not sure how long but she’s always been around since I’ve been in Ghana. She is a wonderful and natural teacher. The children are well behaved, their grades improve steadily year on year and she has a lovely manner with them. She explains their mistakes to them (many teachers put red crosses); she tries new games and activities when they’re suggested; the work she gives them is age appropriate and the children are keen to learn. She is also rarely absent, which at many schools is quite unusual.

But Mary is not trained. She doesn’t have the Senior High School grades to qualify for Sandwich course, which means that for as long as she’s a teacher, she will be paid a minimal salary, not be able to go for promotion and probably not be allowed to teach in the upper school.

Education and its value have clearly gone up the political agenda in recent times. Universal basic education (Primary and Junior High School) is free though not accessible to all due to costs of uniforms, books etc. The government gives a capitation grant for schools. The grant pays for sports days, some school equipment, any cultural events. Teachers are paid separately to this. At present at primary schools in Ghana, capitation grant is Ghc4 per child per year. Translated into £, that is £1.60 at the present rate of exchange, and almost half of this is used to pay exam fees. So less than £1 for the school to spend on each child’s education each year. Compare this to Scotland where children and teachers never need worry about having enough books, materials, sports equipment, musical instruments or even school dinners. (If anyone knows what the capitation per child is in Scotland/England, I’d like to know – Dad thought about £40?)

Another comparison is the government spending figures – again hard to compare, but in Scotland, an estimated £156.9 million on “Learning” and a further £2,426.7 million on higher and further education, SAAS and Lifelong learning. There are approximately 1.5 million school age children in Scotland. Even just taking the “Learning” figure, that’s £105 per child.

In comparison in Ghana, 23.8 million Ghana Cedis – that’s about £10 million spent on educating 7.4 million children – so about £1.35 per child.

I don’t believe a good teacher has to have 5 computers, an interactive whiteboard and every colour of paint under the sun in their classroom. A good teacher will teach well with minimal resources. But what Ghana really needs is the resources, in every school, for the average teacher to teach well. School Performance Improvement Plans (SPIPs) in Ghana are full of good ideas, but 95% of activities cannot be carried out without money. Ghana is now a “middle income” country, but go into any school in northern Ghana and this is incredibly hard to believe.

And as for my friend Mary…? If she lives out the rest of her career in the same school, teaching P2, the school will remain lucky to have her. She and her husband will continue to send their children to school, and maybe those children will go on to finish Senior High and get some more formal qualifications. I’ll continue to think of ways to help her improve as a teacher and one day perhaps get the qualification she deserves.

Some sources I’ve borrowed from:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Education_in_Scotland

http://www.unicef.org/infobycountry/ghana_statistics.html

http://Ghana.gov.gh/documents/2011budget.pdf

http://www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2010/11/17091127/10

How much do you help?

Our night watchman was a bit tipsy last night. Not highly drunk, perfectly easy to talk to, but he’d certainly had a drink or two. He was not so pleased when I handed him Ghc8, Ghc2 less than he was expecting. He’d not turned up for a couple of nights, or if he had, he’d arrived after 11pm and left before 5.30am, which is also completely unacceptable.

But how much do you help? Our watchman is not the best. He has a drink problem, certainly. He normally turns up, rain or shine, every single day. He’s normally sober enough to do the job. We pay a pittance, but it’s the going-rate pittance that all night watchmen get, and it doesn’t stop him from doing other work in the day… if he can be bothered. He often turns up late and leaves pretty early, hasn’t done the garden as he’s sick which means that there’s a small risk of snakes, and a bigger risk of mosquitoes and bugs living in our compound. I’m not sure how sick he is – he had a small operation a month ago. He is normally paying back a loan from us for something or other – a bicycle once, this time “seeds” which I think was actually dowry money for his wife, a poor 18 year old who was probably given no choice about marrying this man twice her age.

Our neighbours, fellow volunteers, have a night watchman too. He gets paid a little bit more. He comes at dusk and stays until dawn. He is absent more often, but always tells them in advance, or gets his son to, and has never once asked for a loan. He tends the garden and keeps himself to himself.

There are lots of men who would love the chance of an extra Ghc35 each month to buy food for their family. Should the job belong to someone else?

Yet still I feel bad for taking Ghc2 from our man. I know I don’t often mention religion, but I keep thinking what would Jesus do? Taking Ghc2 from this man means that he might not be able to eat for a few days. However, it also gives him less money to drink. If he was working for a Ghanaian family, he’d be long gone, and we’ve been told by Ghanaians that he takes advantage of our niceness. Would Jesus have given him some money?

Shortly after our troubles, our friend Louis (a Ghanaian) spoke to him, I think threatening that we were looking for someone else to fill his position. Our watchman improved… for a while… then he brought a lady into the compound (his wife? not sure!) and got another Ghc5 off his pay.

Will we ever sack him? I don’t know. He’s attendance is almost perfect, he does a good job of cleaning the bins and always has a smile on his face. Because he doesn’t really do much other work, he’s around a lot, a deterrent to thieves and it’s nice to know someone’s around at night.

Just another part of the Ghana experience!