Timpsons of Ghana

I while back, I went to get some keys cut – not normally the most exciting of tasks, but quite a Ghanaian experience!

First of all, finding the place was not the easiest of tasks. I had been told that the place was about 2/3 of the way between the traffic lights and the junction, and that the shop was near a small walkway and had a Ghanaian style blind at the front – not the easiest of directions to follow!

I pulled up to approximately the correct place, neatly dodging a stray goat, and asked men fixing engines where I could get my keys copied. They pointed me to the place, and I went to shop and asked if I could get two keys cut. They gave me a price (always agree a price BEFORE you start, saves a lot of hassle!) and a boy of about 12 gave me a low foot stool to sit on. He then went back to playing with his young sister, around 18 months, who was totally naked but for some fluorescent green beads around her waist, and of course gold studs (which girls here are practically born wearing). My attention returned to my key cutter, the children’s father I assume, who was filing the keys himself using very basic tools – a measuring device of sorts, a clamp and a simple file. Although it was around 4pm, the temperature was still in the late 30s at least, and I was still wearing full biking gear, denimy jacket, walking boots, long trousers, holding my large helmet and fleecy gloves.

His outdoor workshop was very basic – a table, his tools and a small filing cabinet. Above and around the worktable were the family’s clothes hanging out to dry, big plastic containers, some filled with water and a bench.

The children were just behind him – hardly a sight you’d be likely see in “health and safety” Britain; the boy and small girl, two other boys, aged about six and four, eating food (with their hands, of course, the Ghanaian way!) and then later, their older sister, perhaps 16, who appeared wearing her “tea-and-bread” (yellow and brown) school uniform. The small girl grabbed hold of her big sister and clung to her legs, clearly happy to see her.

Helping the key-cutter were two or three other young men, aged between 16 and 19 – sons, possibly, or apprentices. Just as I was wondering where mother was, she appeared, large bowl of water balanced on her head, and shouted for the girl to help her down with it. She then collected some water in a small plastic teapot (clearly not used for tea, just about as useful as a chocolate teapot in that sense) and washed her arms and legs.

Mother and older daughter went inside the small house (behind the workshop) and baby was left alone, attempting to eat some fallen rice from the ground until her big sister appeared and emptied her mouth. The boys finished their food, and one washed his hands and returned the plastic bowl to the spot where the food had been bought, clearly used to the routine.

As I sat and waited, I was acutely aware of the smell – the shop being just off the main road was right beside a large open gutter, and after a very hot day, the smell was not pleasant – one of many strong smells I encounter daily.

I asked for a receipt and the older boy was given the receipt book which he went off with for several minutes. I don’t know why the keycutter didn’t write it himself – perhaps illiterate, perhaps he doesn’t have the stamp bearing the shop’s name in his workshop – no idea.

As I left, in true Timpson’s style, I am given a friendly send off – a compliment – “I like your helmet!”

5 Ghana top 5s

Food

5. Cosay (probably spelt incorrectly) - looks like a doughnut, made from ground beans, sometimes a little spicy, breadlike in consistency.

4. Goat kebabs – only when bought from our spot, Feel at home – definitely the best in Bolga.

3. Plantain chips – served with a bit of yazee (ground peanuts and salt).

2. Fan Yogo – strawberry frozen yoghurt, bought from a Fan Ice boy at the tro tro station.

1. Jallof rice – red in colour, made with tomatoes, vegetables, chili, and sometimes the key secret ingredient, ground fish. Delicious!!

Drinks

5. Star – yes, I can’t believe it, but beer has actually made it into my top 5! Still drunk normally with a bit of Sprite to make shandy of sorts

4. Gordon’s Spark – basically alcopop made from gin and fizzy orange juice

3. Smirnoff Ice – just the way it comes at home

2. Red wine+sangria – out of 2 cartons, occasionally made into mulled wine.

1. Shandy – different from 1 above as it comes in a beer sized bottle and very refreshing – only available north of Tamale.

Stupid animals – especially when encountered on motorbike

5. Cows – not nearly so fast as other animals normally, they are more obstacles to dodge. However, one quick, unexpected move and I’m sure the cow would come off better than me. Someone has started letting out their cows at the end of our street – just a small herd of around 10 – as if I didn’t have enough to dodge what with the sewage from the neighbours house, the pig family and goats.

4. Pigs – they only appear at 4 as they are less common than the others – quite fast moving despite how they look, and they have such big families you can be waiting weeks until the whole lot cross the path.

3. Goats – by far the most common of animals encountered, but at least they understand when you beep your horn that they need to get out of the way and not run towards you.

2. Chickens – why did the chicken cross the road? Because they saw a motorbike coming towards them and decided that now was the best time to cross.

1. Sheep – the clear winner in this unfortunate competition, the sheep – who looks nothing like the sheep at home, more of a hairy kind of goat – is by far the most stupid of animals. Sheep do indeed follow each other everywhere, and seem to think that the motorbike horn is a signal to run towards and not away from.

Places to go when it’s too hot…

The few places in Bolga which have AC

5. The Vodafone office – unfortunately, not being a Vodafone customer, this hideout is not the most convenient – there’s only so long you can wander around looking lost in this small office before you are escorted out.

4. The electricity bill paying place – again, only really a viable option at very specific times – they don’t appreciate you going in to thank them for their good service.

3. The Afrikids office – always lovely and cool, and they give you water – but you can’t really disturb these hardworking people too often unless you actually have something to talk to them about!

2. Ubald’s office – one of the VSO Education officers, his office is always lovely and cool – but he is rarely there at the moment.

1. Barclay’s bank – perfect spot to hide out in for a while. Join the end of the queue and wait until you get really near the front, and then hold your head and say “oops, forgot my card today.” Alternatively sit in the waiting area reading a book and no-one bats an eyelid.

Weird and wonderful Ghana

5. The time that Ghanaians get up – when Olke and I go for our slightly crazy 6.15 runs, most people are already on their way to work and school, whereas I’ve just rolled out of bed.

4. Eating so neatly with their hands – Ghanaian food is mainly stodgy foods with soups and sauces, and Ghanaians are very good at eating neatly with only the right hand.

3. Greeting – everyone, everyday – makes for such a nice work atmosphere, but takes ages.

2. How much and what they can carry on their heads – sewing machines, planks of wood, school bags, massive bowls pilled high with fruit, veg, bags of stuff…

1. Ghanaianisms – I’m coming (meaning I’ll go away and come back at some time later today, small small (a very small bit/amount)…(more of these later)